As stated in an earlier post, I knew that I'd have to do an SBA (Small Bust Adjustment), but that I wasn't sure of the approach that I wanted to take. Gertie's try-it-on-and-pinch-it-out method, or the flat-pattern method that Fit for Real People, Hungry Zombie, and Casey all discuss. And I had to decide when to do it: before the first fitting, or after.
I opted for after the first muslin. The first muslin looked alright, and I thought I had the fitting pretty well figured out, without even having to take out extra fabric. Silly me. The second muslin was done in a thinner, more slippery fabric for me to get a better sense of the actual fit of my future dress. Verdict? Baggy as all get-out. I pinched out the excess fabric, thinking I knew what I needed to do: adjust the dart and take out some fabric from the middle. I did remember to adjust for my bust apex too.
I don't have pictures of what ensued, because it was obviously not going to work. Unless I had bigger boobs. (Where's my dad's mom when I need her?)
Back to the drawing board! (Sewing board?)
I think I spent a good hour or so fretting about how to go about this process. Even though I already have done an SBA for the Swing Dress Sew-Along. Anyway, to make a long story short: I did the pinch-out method that Gertie does to find out how much to take out, and it worked out all right. But in transferring the changes to the pattern, I followed the flat pattern methods mentioned above. The result? A much mangled pattern and a much better fit. It's at times like these, that I feel a mild kinship to Dr. Frankenstein. Start out with a giant monster, and eventually creating a similarly sewn together, but more approachable monster that is smaller and more feminine. Or androgynous, in my case, I suppose.
|It's like a jigsaw puzzle meets modern art|